Coyotas and the Doña María Bakery

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In old town Hermosillo in Sonora, Mexico is a bakery tucked down a rather small side street in a building named Colonia Villa de Seris.  The descendants of Doña Maria Ochoa de Moreno own and run this rather old bakery that their grandmother opened in 1954.

 

Old Town Hermosillo with Cathedral in the foreground
Old Town Hermosillo with Cathedral in the foreground

 

Many types of baked goods are produced here but most who come to make a purchase are only interested in one. Known as Coyotas, this pastry was originally created by local tribe, the Comcáac Seri.  Many decades ago it was adapted by Doña Maria and is still being produced today.

Coyotas ready to be baked
Coyotas ready to be baked

 

Popular all over Mexico, Coyotas are sweet pastries made from two tortillas (flour, water, salt and oil) with a filling of brown sugar – a flavour known as piloncillo. Now a days, Doña Maria’s Coyotas are filled with dulce de leche and a sprinkling of granulated peanuts but there are a variety of other types of this delicate pastry including: apple, guava, chocolate, quince, strawberry, pineapple and fig.

 

Where the magic happens!
Where the magic happens!

 

Each Coyota is made by hand and baked at a high temperature in what appears to be a quite ancient oven.  Watching the process is intriguing as two women churn out the ‘tortillas’ with immense speed.  First a ball of dough is squished and moulded into a tortilla and then stuffed with filling.  The Coyotas are then baked at a very high temperature to create the flaky pastry.

 

Coyotas at the Dona Maria Bakery
Coyotas on display

The bakery is still a family business with Mr. Renato Ramírez Grijalva in charge of the day to day running of the business; Renato is married to the granddaughter of Doña Maria, the founder. The owner is Ana Catalina Moreno Ochoa, the daughter of Doña María.

 

Doña Maria Bakery,
Sufragio No. 37, Colonia Villa de Seris, Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico

Tel: +52 (662) 307 0340

For more information on Hermosillo and Sonora click on the link or click Vive Hermosillo.

Haunted Durango

Apache Spirit Dancers / historic photograph
Apache Spirit Dancers / historic photograph

The Wild West, with its shootouts and Indian raids, avalanches, disease and lynchings, has enough gruesome and chilling tales to fill volume upon volume of scary books and to create dozens of ‘B’ rated horror films.

 

Founded in 1880, Durango, Colorado served the newly built Denver and Rio Grande Railroad and, as in any small, burgeoning hamlet in the West, there were many rather roguish types who chose to make this mining town their home.

For this reason, there is a whole compendium of gory tales from Durango that makes it a fascinating place to visit, particularly for Halloween.  From legendary gun battles between the Stockton Gang and Simmons Gang to spontaneous court hearings and unsanctioned lynchings, Durango would have been a lawless place.  Add to this a devastating fire in 1889 plus the Spanish Flu epidemic in the early part of the twentieth century and you have the background for a significant amount of hauntings.

A haunted graveyard
A haunted graveyard

 

It is important to note that the land around Durango was exploited for its many resources. Mining companies sprung up to extract silver, gold, coal, iron, gypsum and marble from the surrounding land. Many became overnight millionaires, but most young men ended up toiling in the mines.

The La Plata Mountains
The La Plata Mountains

 

In the La Plata mountains, outside the town, mining was a dangerous business as one might well imagine.  Not only were the mines themselves prone to cave-ins and dynamite blasts that went wrong but, the terrain was equally dangerous. Avalanches during the winter were frequent due to the configuration of the mountains.  Mining camps were clustered at the bottom of a river valley and, the further up into the hills you climbed, the steeper the gradient became.  It was particularly bad when the snow became impacted.  It was then that avalanches were common, killing more people than all the shootouts and epidemics combined.

 

No trespassing - La Plata Mountains
No trespassing – La Plata Mountains

 

Haunted Stater Hotel, Durango  Credit Scott DW Smith
Haunted Stater Hotel, Durango Credit Scott DW Smith

 

There are also places in and around the town that are known for paranormal activity and sightings. Harking back to Victorian times, the 19th century Stater Hotel, built directly on the original railroad line, is famous for this. From the adjacent alley, the ghostly figure of a man in a white shirt standing on the tracks has been seen. There is also an apparition of a railway engineer in period clothing  seen near the hotel as well as a barmaid and young girl walking through the hotel lobby.

Animas Cemetery
Animas Cemetery

Another spooky place to visit is the cemetery of Animas City. Established in 1876, the town has now been absorbed into Durango.  Interred here are the residents of the early settlement with the first burials reported to be in 1877.  Many long-term La Plata County residents have ancestors laid to rest here plus there are also Civil War veterans, infamous local outlaws, and even young children.

The one-hour 15-minute tour begins at 6 pm ($15 pp).  There is also a special two hour Halloween cemetery tour offered on the 27th and 31st October: www.ghostwalkdurango.com

For more information on Durango visit: www.durango.org
For further on Colorado visit: www.colorado.com

Riga’s Motor Museum

Though there are other museums that have opened in Riga this year, it was the newly refurbished Rīgas Motormuzejs, about 20 minutes outside of town, that I made time to visit.

 

Historic Vehicle at Riga Motor Museum
Alfa Romeo at Riga Motor Museum

 

Housed in a new and modern three-story building, it has interactive exhibits, historical information and, of course, an enormous collection of vintage vehicles.  The exhibits collude together to capture the mood and culture of the 20thcentury.  More than that, it is a mini history of human kind’s technology under one roof.  And, with Latvia being a former Soviet country, it is uniquely placed to give an up-close perspective on Soviet life and the conflict and confluence between eastern and western societies.

 

Riga Motor Museum

The beginning of the tour features videos and displays about the invention of the wheel, progressing on to the first prototype vehicle produced by Karl Benz in 1886.  There are model T cars and an Overland sedan from the U.S.A. as well as Krastin cars, built in Latvia, from the beginning of the century.

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G.M. Cars were built in Latvia

 

The most critical piece of the collection on show is the 1930s mountain racing Auto Union V16.  Apparently, it symbolises the “Silver Arrow” era in the history of global automotive industry. In fact, this important vehicle was the impetus for creating the museum.

1930s mountain racing Auto Union V1
1930s mountain racing Auto Union V1

 

The Kremlin Collection, vintage Soviet cars which were collected by enthusiasts in Riga before the fall of the USSR, is truly the highlight of the museum.  These unique and, at the time, incredibly expensive vehicles were the preserve of Soviet officials only.  The proletariat could be on waiting lists for years to acquire even a modest vehicle.

 

Cars for the proletariat
Cars for the proletariat

 

The 1966 Silver Shadow Rolls Royce, mangled in an accident when Leonid Brezhnev was driving, has been acquired and is on display with a reconstruction of the accident to boot.

Breshnev's Silver Shadow Rolls Royce
Breshnev’s Silver Shadow Rolls Royce

 

There is a very popular interactive exhibit in the Kremlin section. Here a projector is used to transport the participant (waving required) into a Stalinesque parade travelling through the streets of Moscow in an open top sedan.

Yasmen Kaner-White accepts the crowds adulation!
Yasemen Kaner-White accepts the crowds adulation!

By the 1930’s, there were 90 makes of automobile on the streets of Riga.  However, they were few vehicles and these were very expensive.  The President of Latvia then decided to get into bed with the U.S. car manufacturers and this all changed.  In 1936, a license to build Ford vehicles was acquired and the Vairogs factory born. The first Ford Vairogs vehicle was finished in 1937, a truck with a V8 engine and 85 horsepower.

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The Krastin Automobile Company in the U.S. founded by a Latvian.

 

When Latvia lost her independence in 1940, the factory was nationalised, and production stopped. Up to that point, however, they had produced 300 cars and 1000 trucks.

An original fire engine
An original fire engine

There are other utility vehicles in the part of the museum including two fully refurbished fire engines, a raft of bicycles, vans and buses.

 

Open every day of the year from 10:00 to 18:00.
Eizenšteina iela 6, Riga, LV – 1079
info@motormuzejs.lv

Zimbabwe: A Journey of Revelation

On approach by plane to the Kigali Airport in Rwanda, I see the familiar red soil, green trees and clear skies of Africa and my fatigue quickly disappears.  There is a magic to this land that can be hard to describe but tugs at my heart strings every time I visit.

 

Great Zimbabwe
Great Zimbabwe

Our group is on a connecting flight and so it is on to Robert Gabriel Mugabe International Airport to begin our adventure.

 

This is my first trip to Zimbabwe.  Due to the sanctions and hostilities directed at the former President, Robert Mugabe, I had wondered whether this was a place I would ever get to visit.  But now that Mr. Mugabe has been ‘escorted’ out of his post and a new President has stepped in, things are rapidly changing.  Mr. Mnangagwa, known as the crocodile, does not have the best reputation and there are still democratic elections to be held, but the feeling of optimism among the general populace is palpable…electric even, and it gives me a real sense of the hopefulness for the future of this country.

Mr. Kaseke, CEO of the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority, puts it most succinctly when he says his country’s USP is its warm and welcoming people. 

Pool at Elephant Eye Lodge

Pool at Elephant Eye Lodge

In Harare, I notice currency from the old regime being sold. I learn later there are denominations of a million and even billion Zimbabwean dollars on a single bill. I need to learn more about what previously happened with the economy. But, what I mainly notice, are the beautiful veg for sale on every street corner, and, of course, the friendly outgoing people.

Beautiful Fruit for sale in Harare
Beautiful Fruit for sale in Harare

But soon we leave Harare and are out exploring the countryside and nature.

Giraffes in Hwange National Park
Giraffes in Hwange National Park

 

And speaking of nature, it seems that at the end of the rainy season one can still expect changeable weather.  Much like the mid-west of the U.S., land-locked Zimbabwe can experience tropical storms during its shoulder seasons which may mean lightning strikes.  Quite exciting.

World View
World View

 

After an overnight stop in Bulawayo, where one of my cousins was born, we head for the Matopo Hills and the Matopo National Park.  It is when entering vast tracts of the African veld, full of kopje (granite exposed hill tops), that one starts getting a feel for the Zimbabwe of old. Here, there are ancient rock paintings of the San peoples who would have been migrating possibly to the coast.  In days gone by, there were no roads crossing this land, only foot paths.

There are also black and white rhino in the park.  Being taken on safari with Norman and his side-kick, also named Norman blackrhinosafaris.com, to trek rhino on foot is a, frankly, gratifying experience as we are able to get so close to these rare and beautiful animals.

White Rhino in the Matopo Hills National Park
White Rhino in the Matopo Hills National Park

 

This area is also famous for a hilly granite outcrop known as World’s View.  Rather bizarrely and controversially, this is where Cecil Rhodes was buried after his death at the age of 48.  He had spent a great deal of his life in South Africa but wanted to be interred in the hills of Matabeleland.

 

San People Rock Art
San People Rock Art

But now another animal adventure awaits us deep in the middle of the country: the Hwange National Park. The park covers 14,651 km²and with 40,000 elephants, lion and giraffe and herd animals all roaming about, this is a truly exciting place for a game drive. If viewing is difficult due to overgrown vegetation, then theNyamandhlovu Pan with its elevated viewing platform solves this problem.  We saw crocodiles, Zebra, Waterbuck, Wildebeest and more all converging in and around the water hole.

 

The Nyamandhlovu Pan
The Nyamandhlovu Pan

 

Being able to stay at the Elephant Eye Safari Lodge and have a glamping type experience is awesome. Here, the swimming pool has no chemicals as elephants come and drink nearly every night.  Also, at night, a lit section on the grassy plain with its own tiny waterhole, is a feast for the eyes as we watch impala at play.

 

Our guide, Lovemore, in Great Zimbabwe
Our guide, Lovemore, in Great Zimbabwe

Another place we visit which is of great importance is Great Zimbabwe.  The medieval hill complex feels more like a pre-historic site. Climbing up the ancient stairs surrounded by stone masonry is a bit reminiscent of Sri Lanka’s Sigiriya.  The structure of the complex is built into the granite and the views from the top are well worth the effort getting up there.

 

Great Zimbabwe Rocks
Great Zimbabwe Rocks

 

A stay at the nearby Ancient City’s Lodge (which is built from stone in the style of Great Zimbabwe) will mean you have easy access to Great Zimbabwe, a short drive away.

The Victoria Falls from a helicopter
The Victoria Falls from a helicopter

But it is the Victoria Falls which go the farthest to capture the magic of this country.  5,633 ft. wide and 343 ft. tall and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, this is the planet’s greatest mass of falling water.  The first European to see the falls was missionary Dr. David Livingstone in the mid 19thcentury.  He wrote that, “scenes so lovely that it must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

 

The magnificent Victoria Falls
The magnificent Victoria Falls

 

The Zimbabwean side is packed with viewpoints including one above the Devil’s Cataract and four facing Main Falls, where at peak season more than 27 million cubic feet of water fall per minute. Walk the trail along the Rain Forest Walk and you will surely be drenched before the end of it.

Flights on Rwandair from London Gatwick cost from GBP 390 in economy (low season) Premium Economy from GBP 900 and Business class from GBP 1300.

In the Footsteps of Dr. King

Wanda, our guide at the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church
Wanda, our guide at the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church

 

Wanda is taking me and several friends around a church. This isn’t just any place of worship. It is the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church in Montgomery, Alabama where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was pastor. As we enter the sanctuary, she makes a request. “I am going to challenge y’all to say something that doesn’t come naturally to most people. So, repeat after me, 1) I was wrong, 2) Will you forgive me, please? 3) Thank you, and 4) I love you.”  She has us each repeat the phrases. One person’s eyes start to well up.

It must come as a mild shock to hear anyone speak openly about being loving and forgiving to others.  Wanda is African American, and when you think of the context of where we are, the Deep South, and how African Americans were ill-treated at one time, the message of forgiveness she spreads is even more remarkable.

 

Mural at Dexter Avenue Baptist Church
Mural at Dexter Avenue Baptist Church

 

It is then that I notice a mural.  It depicts the Nobel Peace Prize winning pastor as an angel ascending into heaven.  Though the thought may be inspiring, the tragic end to his life is in such contrast to his teachings of non-violence, I find it disconcerting, if not confusing.

 

Cross at Bethel St. Baptist Church, Birmingham
Cross at Bethel St. Baptist Church, Birmingham

 

Yet for many like Wanda who continue his work, the mantra of spiritual action coupled with forgiveness has carried on long after the proponent is gone.  Dr. King’s use of religion as a force for social change, completely unprecedented at the time, changed the lives of many Americans irreparably and has impacted many internationally.

 

Edmund Pettus Bridge, Selma, and Bloody Sunday.
Edmund Pettus Bridge, Selma, and Bloody Sunday.

For the people who find his mission and the all-consuming work he did for equal rights significant, there is a US Civil Rights Trail that has recently launched.  In Alabama, there is the Selma to Montgomery National Historic Trail.  A pilgrimage, if you will, which follows the path of those who marched for voter’s rights from Brown Chapel in Selma across the Edmund Pettus Bridge to the State Capitol in Montgomery 54 miles away.

The US Civil Rights Trail marks out the places where Dr. King lived, worked, influenced parishioners, started marches and promoted, as well as taking part in, non-violent demonstrations.  In Memphis, Tennessee where his life ultimately ended at the hands of an assassin, while supporting a strike by local workers, the Lorraine Hotel is now a permanent fixture of the trail.

Statue of Dr. King in Selma
Statue of Dr. King in Selma

Statue of Dr. King, Selma copy

My interest?  The civil rights movement was in its heyday when I was a youngster and, when children in Alabama got involved with marches to gain voting rights in 1963, my school friends and I held ‘sit ins’ at our primary school in California in solidarity.

Born in Atlanta, Georgia, the famous pacifist, and preacher was christened Michael King Jr. but his father, also a preacher, travelled to Germany and was inspired by the work of the Protestant reformer, Martin Luther.  He then decided to change his son’s first name to Martin Luther.

 

6th Ave. Baptist Church and the clock that stopped.
6th Ave. Baptist Church and the clock that stopped.

 

At the age of 25, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. became the pastor of the Dexter Ave. Baptist church in the town of Montgomery, Alabama. It would be his only posting as a minister.  This church, with its well-to-do members, was quite literally in the shadow of the State Capitol Building.  King was telling his parishioners that he, “had a dream”, while Governor George Wallace, who ultimately ran for President on a segregation platform, was merely yards away.  The coincidence is startling.

To find out more about Alabama visit: www.alabama.travel

Click to find out more about the U.S. Civil Rights Trail

 

How to conquer the long haul flight (and win)

My most frequent long haul destination
My most frequent long haul destination is LAX

 

Is there ever the possibility of arriving in your destination after a ten-hour flight refreshed?  That is, without paying the price for business or first class?  Possibly not but here are a few tricks that can certainly help.

1) Always carry a flight pillow.

And, if you won’t feel like a numpty, even a regular size pillow. Also, a large bottle of water (purchase after security) and shoes that lace up or fasten with velcro – you might feel like your Gran but when your feet swell, you will thank me.

2) If you have a bit of cash, premium class can sometimes be affordable.

Norwegian.com’s premium is virtually like upgrading to Business Class…and usually costs about an extra £200.  Blissfully wide seats recline back and, with the extending foot rest, make an enormous difference.  Delta Economy + has 4 inches of extra leg room and dedicated overhead bin space for a small price.

3) Crazy early morning flight?

Book an airport hotel with a transfer included.  Hotel price comparison sights will help you find something reasonably priced. You will board your flight having had a decent night’s rest.

4) Fly direct and cut out the additional stress of transfers and connections.

Ever had the stress of running through an airport with personal belongings flying hither and yon as you go?  Then you know what I mean.  There are some destinations where a connection usually cannot be avoided, such as flying from London to Yangon, but the number of direct flights on offer is increasing all the time.

5) If you are a twosome travelling together and the plane has a three-seat configuration – plus you can choose seats – then book an aisle and a window.

Unless the flight is fully booked, it is likely no one will take the middle seat.  You can still sleep in each other’s arms if you want but you will love the extra space.

6) Bring ear plugs, an eye mask and flight compression socks

If you are in economy, you will likely be positioned over the roaring engines so ear plugs help if you want to sleep.  Even when lights are lowered, other passengers’ entertainment screens might be near enough to disrupt, so eye masks are a necessity these days.  Flight compression socks help circulation and have been proven to combat Deep Vein Thrombosis. Plus, anything that addresses your well-being can only be a good thing.

7) Pack a smallish ruck sack with essentials to put beneath the seat in front of you.

You will want your lip balm, water, tissues and snacks handy during the flight.  Plus, if these items are close by, you then don’t risk having locker contents falling onto grumpy passengers below when rummaging through a larger bag.

8) Bring a tablet along

If you have a tablet (lap tops may soon be required to be packed in your hold luggage) with your favourite film or two downloaded, then you are prepared if the entertainment system goes down.  Of course, if lap tops are to be in hold luggage this may apply to i-Pads as well.  If so, bring magazines and anything to keep your mind occupied and help you feel at ‘home’.

9) Limit alcohol intake

I don’t mean to be a party-pooper but alcohol is significantly more potent at higher elevations.  The dehydrating quality of alcoholic beverages alone is not conducive to your health and relaxation on a flight.

With thanks to Discover Los Angeles for providing the image of LAX.

Where will you travel in 2017? Here are some of the places to consider.

2016 has been a tumultuous year and a great many destinations are becoming more difficult to travel to for a whole variety of reasons. But, never fear, there are still wonderful places to experience. Here is my list of just a few places to go in 2017 at a time of the year you might not have considered previously.

Sea Urchin, Caribbean Sea
Sea Urchin, Caribbean Sea

January
Enjoy sunny weather in the Caribbean when it is most grim back home  with the bonus of avoiding the stormy summer season.  Celebrity Cruise offers guests the opportunity to join chef, Antiguan Nicole Arthurton, in discovering how to make West Indian recipes step-by step. Nicole will use the bountiful garden harvest that is indicative of this island for her special recipes. Departing 7 January, 2017, the ‘At home with Chef Nicole’ experience in Antigua costs $235 (£178) per person; part of a seven-night cruise departing from San Juan, Puerto Rico. www.celebritycruises.co.uk

 

February
Get those ski books and poles packed as this is an ideal time of year for skiing (though do avoid half-term crush). Val d’esere in the French Alps is a spectacular choice for those looking for a bit of luxury when hitting the slopes. And we all know the French are famous for their après ski. Oh la la! www.crystalski.co.uk

 

This is a Holi shop in India
A Holi shop in India

March
Holi, the Festival of Colours in India, takes place the week after the full moon every March. Participants wear white clothing and colourful powders are thrown up in the air and onto everyone and everything. In 2017, Holi take’s place on March 13, with Holika Dahan (the bonfire night for scaring away evil spirits) on March 12. Hayes & Jarvis (www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk) is offering a nine-night private Golden Triangle with Rajasthan tour to India that departs      9 March, 2017.

 

Tulips in Amsterdam
Tulips in Amsterdam

April
Tulips are in bloom this month so take advantage of this spectacle by booking a river cruise along the ubiquitous canals and waterways of Amsterdam. I recently sailed on the elegant AmaCerto ship and can say this cruise line puts passengers requests and desires at the forefront of what they do. Seven-night Tulip Time itinerary travels through the Netherlands and Belgium. www.amawaterways.co.uk/europe-river-cruises-2017

 

Emery County Utah
Emery County, Utah, USA

May
Late Spring is a beautiful time of year to visit any of the National Parks in the U.S. but a trip to Utah can be beyond expectations. The Mighty Five (parks) boast insanely dramatic desert landscapes with rock formations formed over millions of years. Visitors can also escape to the mountains resorts of northern Utah for hiking and boating.  Delta.com has direct flights to Salt Lake City from London Heathrow from £685. www.visitutah.com/uk

June
The famous Wildebeest Migration of Tanzania and Kenya is well under way by June as great herds head north following the seasonal change and rain. When visiting this part of East Africa there is the option of combining it with a beach holiday. White sand beaches and warm water make places like Diani a tropical paradise. Intrepid Holidays feature an itinerary which has a game drive on the Serengeti and at the Nsorongoro Crater with a visit to Mto WaMbu, Managu and Irente-Lushoto as well. The ‘Road to Zanzibar’ group trip with Intrepid begins on 30th April and offers basic accommodation or camping. www.intrepidtravel.com

 

Norway in Summer
Norway in Summer

July
Experiencing the mid-night sun in the arctic is, without a doubt, one of the great joys of travel. Norway’s coastline is riven with deep, mystical fjords and, at the very top of the Arctic circle, Sami still herd reindeer as they have done for millennia. Go even further north to Svalbard and you are in the territory of polar bears. For those wanting to travel to Iceland, Greenland and other northernly populated areas; cruise-line, Hurtigruten, famous for delivering post to outlying seashore villages in Norway, would be an ideal choice. www.hurtigruten.co.uk

August
Costa Rica is one of the most biologically diverse places on the planet and is perfect for nature lovers. It is also tipped as one of the bargains for 2017. Start at the beach and then ascend to the Monteverde Cloud Forest and pass through six different eco-zones on the way. For bird watchers, there isn’t a better destination. www.costaricaexperts.com

September
Late in September, if far enough north, the trees’ colours could already be starting to change. This startling phenomena is predominent where there are vast expanses of deciduous forests such as North America’s eastern seaboard. The islands and coastline of Canada is a truly inspiring place to be when the forest’s explode with colour. Not only is it a visual feast but visitors can also literally feast on tantalizing seafood such as in Nova Scotia’s Bay of Fundy and through out the region. www.keepexploring.ca

 

Kayaking near Key West
Kayaking near Key West

 

October
Though incredibly warm in the summer, the Florida Keys are just starting to cool off slightly in early autumn. For those who enjoy sports such as deep sea fishing, kayaking or diving, this is one of the best places in the world to come and experience these unique islets. Sunset is celebrated every evening of the year at the farthest southerly point in the U.S., Mallory Square, Key West www.fla-keys.com

November
Myanmar is in the middle of the dry season during November with warm temperatures and warm, welcoming people. Now that Aung Sang Suu Kyi’s democratic party is in power, this country has opened up to tourism in a big way. The valley of 10,000 temples, Bagan, is one place you won’t want to miss. The incredible golden stupa and complex, Schwedagon Paya, in Yangon is an important highlight as is Kandawgyi Park. Stay at Belmond’s Governor’s Residences for a taste of old colonial Britain. www.belmond.com/governorsresidence

 

Atlantic Ridge, Iceland
Atlantic Ridge, Iceland

 

December
Iceland has only just started promoting itself during the winter months and it is a magical time to see this ‘young’ island, geologically speaking. The scenery is beyond spectacular: the Atlantic Rift, the Geysers, waterfalls and the thermal pools are just a few of the spectacular sights. Get out of Rekyavik late at night to see the Northern Lights. Unforgettable. www.visiticeland.com

 

All photographs © Lynn Houghton – the roaming scribe

Off the beaten track Utah – Goblin Valley in Emery County

Spectacular Scenery in Emery County
San Rafael Swell in Emery County

The vastness and bleak beauty of Utah’s southern deserts cannot be understated.  Between Green River and Moab County (Arches and Canyonland National Park) and Wayne County (Capitol Reef) lies largely uninhabited land filled with amazing landscapes.  It is known as San Rafael Country.

Emery County aka San Rafael Country is possibly best known for Goblin Valley State Park.

Tina in the shade, Goblin Valley
Tina in the shade, Goblin Valley

 

Located  between Green River and Capitol Reef National Park is the turn off for Goblin Valley – Hwy 24.   This surreal landscape has been created mainly by water erosion and also weathering.  It is sandstone (softer parts of the rock eroded more quickly than harder layers) which create the bizarre shapes that dominate this valley.

Goblin Valley State Park
Goblin Valley State Park

 

The park was brought to the public’s attention when popular comedian Tim Allen starred in the film Galaxy Quest and the rock formations in the Valley became part of the story line.  Camping is allowed nearby and there are showers and bathrooms and also electricity in the yurts.

Snake Petroglyph on the way to Millsite Reservoir
Snake Petroglyph on the way to Millsite Reservoir

 

The amount of records carved into rock in this area by the ancient aboriginal peoples is mind boggling.  My favourites were the petroglyphs at Rochester Creek called the Rochester Rock Art Panel.  A short 1/2 mile hike from the roadside (Country Road 805) and you see how ancient peoples learned about family life. One image even depicts a mother giving birth!

Rochester Creek Petroglyphs
Rochester Creek Petroglyphs

 

Birthing depicted on petroglyphs
Birthing depicted on petroglyphs at Rochester Creek

 

If you are looking for a natural activity, how about scorpion hunting at night?  Using ultra-violet black-light torches to spot the creatures’ exoskeleton’s which glow in the dark, is something kids in particular find fun and frantic.  Perfect when camping.

Scorpions skeletons glow under black light torch
Scorpions skeletons glow under black light torch © gutsytraveler.com

 

Castle Valley Outdoors

Ever fancied going on an old fashioned shooting trip?  You and your party will be shooting in style at the expansive Castle Valley Outdoors property.   There are organised jaunts every autumn to shoot pheasant, chukar and quail.  You also can stay at the property’s lodge or one of its private cabins.

Shooting at Castle Valley Outdoors
Shooting at Castle Valley Outdoors

 

Antler chandelier at Castle Valley Outdoors.
Antler chandelier at Castle Valley Outdoors.

 

Fancy a spot of golf?  The views are magnificent from Millsite Reservoir Golf Course.  There is an enormous spillway/waterfall here and the owners provide golf buggies for everyone at only $36 for 18 holes.

Millsite Reservoir Golf Course
Millsite Reservoir Golf Course
Sandstone cliffs frame the Millsite Reservoir.
Sandstone cliffs frame the Millsite Reservoir Golf Course.

Getting off the beaten track can be a wonderful way to experience a new destination.  For a place as scenic as Utah, your efforts will not disappoint.

Images, unless stated, @roaming_scribe

Lynn stayed at the River Terrace Inn.  Visit: www.river-terrace.com/

For more information click Emery County.

 

Harmony of the Seas – Why you just might want to get on board

 

Harmony of the Seas in Southampton Dockyard
Harmony of the Seas in Southampton Dockyard readying for maiden voyage

 

If you live in the UK and have never had the chance to cruise on one of Royal Caribbean Cruise Line’s Oasis Class ships, then perhaps this summer is the prime time to get on board?

Harmony of the Seas will have itineraries in the Mediterranean and cruise from home ports of Barcelona and Rome.

What can you expect on board the largest ship in the world?

Of course, it is enormous.  Measuring 227,700 gross registered tons it is 2,418 gross tonnes larger than Oasis of the Seas and Allure of the Seas, as well as 33 centimetres longer. It is 20 percent more fuel efficient than its sister ships due to a combination of new scrubber technologies, a redesigned hull and a new system that allows this ship to glide smoothly through the waves.

Looking down to Promenade Deck
Looking down to Promenade Deck from Deck 18

Harmony of the Seas holds 5,479 passengers but you will never notice crowds on this floating resort as they are spread over 18 decks.

The USP that is most remarkable is the ‘scooped out’ effect in the centre of the ship.  From Deck 18 down to Deck 6, the interior of Harmony of the Seas is quite literally scooped out and ‘inside’ cabins along here have a view of the outdoors.  It means there is light and air, live plants and open sky to be enjoyed from the middle of the ship.  Remarkable. Central Park is quite literally a park and is a sheltered, sunny place for al fresco dining.

 

Samurai Soldier at Izumi Sushi Bar
Samurai Soldier at Izumi Sushi Bar

Which leads on to the next attraction which is quite specific to Harmony of the Seas.  Dining.  It is incredibly varied – but do remember that there is an additional charge for these venues**.

In Central Park (Deck 8) you will find Jamie’s Italian serving sea food, meat dishes and pasta plus a quite decent house wine. Chops Grille as well as 150 Central Park and the Park Café are also in Central Park. Deck 6 features Johnny Rockets, Boardwalk Dog House and Sabor Taqueria and Tequila Bar for those who need a Mexican food fix.

On Deck 5 is Sorrentos’ Pizzeria, Promenade Café and Boot and Bonnet Pub as well as the quirky Bionic Bar.

Bionic Bar serving up cocktails
Bionic Bar serving up cocktails

 

Deck 4 offers Izumi – serving both Sushi and Hibachi – Jazz on 4 and also the Main Dining Venue.

Deck 12 has the futuristic Wonderland which I recommend everyone try once during the cruise.  Unusual but inspiring.

Windjammer Market Place, Solarium Bistro, Park Café, Vitality Café, Main Dining Room, Boardwalk Dog House and Sorrentos’ Pizzeria are included in the price of the cruise.  Coastal Kitchen on Deck 17 is for suite guests only.

 

The Ultimate Abyss Slide
The Ultimate Abyss Slide

And there is certainly loads to do for the kiddies and those that are young at heart.

GREASE is the Broadway musical that will be featured in the Royal Theatre.  It is the first time this musical will be on a cruise ship and advance pre-views say that it is amazing.

Up on Deck 16 is a fantastic fun-ride: The Ultimate Abyss Slide.  Young and old can participate as you sit on a mat with your feet and legs tucked into the large pocket in the front.  You then plummet ten stories down the 100ft. long tube to the Promenade Deck below.  Quite thrilling, indeed.

Stroking the snail on the mini-golf course on Deck 18
Me and snail communing on the mini-golf course on Deck 18

 

Also on Deck 16 is Flow-rider, plus a mini-golf course and the zip-line.

Perfect Storm Waterslides
Perfect Storm Waterslides

 

Deck 18 has the Perfect Storm Waterslides while the Promenade Deck has an old-fashioned Carousel, and also the quite thrilling Aqua Theatre.  Deck 7 has the ever popular climbing wall.

There is even a PADI Dive Centre on board for those interested in Scuba and in getting their certification.

There is even an entire neighbourhood dedicated to children. Kid’s Avenue (Deck 14) is a central boulevard connecting all the kid’s spaces. Areas include Royal Babies and Tots Nursery; a family crafts workshop; the arts studio Adventure Art; Adventure Science Lab; and Adventure Ocean Theatre where kids can learn about theatrical productions, take part in talent shows and sign up for hip hop dance classes.

If you have never sailed on a large ship, this might not be your cup of tea, but you will never know until you try it.

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** Dining option prices

  • Johnny Rockets: $4.95 per person
  • Chops Grill: $30 per person
  • Vintages: as per menu
  • 150 Central Park: $40 per person
  • Izumi: Upfront charge of $3 for Lunch and $5 for Dinner plus prices as per menu
  • Wonderland: $45 per person
  • Jamie’s Italian: $15 Lunch / $25 Dinner

Food and Drink packages

  • The Unlimited beverage package: $56.35 per person per day and this covers anything to a value of $10
  • The Unlimited soda package: $5.18 per day
  • For unlimited sodas, mocktails, juices, shakes, floats and hot chocolate: $8.05 per day
  • Classic package (including beers, house wines, spirits and cocktails): $49 per day
  • Premium package (beers, house win, brand spirits and cocktails): $59 per day

For more information and to book: www.royalcaribbean.co.uk

Born to Fly! – Tandem paragliding in Tenerife

the Volcanic terrain of Tenerife
The stunning Volcanic terrain of Tenerife

“… you just run down the slope and jump off!” exclaims my pilot, Luis, with an endearing grin.  Standing stationery on a gritty bit of volcanic slope is one thing, but throwing myself off the edge is something else entirely.  We are at about 2,200 metres above sea level and waiting for the right wind direction to lift our chutes skyward and takes us flying over the valley far below.  Yes, I am tandem para-gliding for the first time in my life and wondering what on earth I have gotten myself into.

I am first to take off
I am first to take off – Wheeee!

I am not afraid of heights and seldom back down when it comes to adrenalin fuelled activities but, even for me, this is a nerve-wracking.

Lauren Jade Hill getting ready to fly
Lauren Jade Hill getting ready to fly

Six of us are para-gliding with an adventure company called Enminube (loosely translated ‘In my cloud’).  We depart from La Laguna on the north side of Tenerife and soon are travelling up to Teide National Park.  Ultimately, we will be‘flying’ over an area named Valle de La Orotava  and will land about a ½ hour later in Puerto de la Cruz.

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When you are perched in the stratosphere on Tenerife, the omnipresent Mount Teide appears to hover in the distance.  The views are breath-taking in their beauty with equal amounts of mountainous terrain, clear sky, forested valley floor and sea making the vista incomparable.

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As we assemble on the gravely incline, there is a bit of waiting before the wind – for that all important uplift – is just right.  The thermal drafts will get inside the parachute so that the pilots and passengers can float up and over the valley floor.

Hooked up to the harness, I can feel the weight of the pilot and the parachute behind me.  As I am the first one (?), I am quite terrified of running down the slope.  What if I slip and fall?  More than anything, I am afraid of doing it wrong and hurting us both.

Suddenly someone named Enrique is shrieking in my ear, “You were born to fly!”… it is time to take the plunge and I start to run.  Within three steps, I am airborne.  And it is utterly magnificent. I feel, quite literally, as if I am flying.  Soaring over the rugged peaks below is sheer joy.

Sunset from Mt. Tiede
Sunset from Mt. Tiede

Within about 5 minutes we are already beyond the rocky ridge and over the forest. The unique pine trees below me are completely fire resistance.  When Teide erupts, the flowing lava will burn and scar the trunk of these pines but they simply start sprouting green shoots a few months later.

I look behind and see my compatriots lined up and flying behind me.  I have to admit, it is exciting to take the lead.

Volcanic Tenerife and views from Mt. Tiede
Volcanic Tenerife and views from Mt. Tiede

Finally, below us is Puerto de la Cruz.  Luis points out the Hotel Botánico where I am staying and the Botanical Gardens nearby.  This is the lush, gorgeous part of Tenerife.

Lush gardens of Hotel Botanico
Lush gardens of Hotel Botanico

As we near the ocean, there is an enormous turquoise coloured swimming pool that comes into view. Not far from the pool is a parking lot where we will be landing.

An unforgettable experience.

Tenerife was host for the British Guild of Travel Writer’s annual general meeting and this was just one of the many sponsored activities organised by the Tenerife Tourist Board.

Images © roamingscribe unless noted.

Other participants were: Kiki Deere, Sue Watts, Petra Shepherd, Lauren Jade Hill and Lindsey Sutton.