In old town Hermosillo in Sonora, Mexico is a bakery tucked down a rather small side street in a building named Colonia Villa de Seris. The descendants of Doña Maria Ochoa de Moreno own and run this rather old bakery that their grandmother opened in 1954.
Many types of baked goods are produced here but most who come to make a purchase are only interested in one. Known as Coyotas, this pastry was originally created by local tribe, the Comcáac Seri. Many decades ago it was adapted by Doña Maria and is still being produced today.
Popular all over Mexico, Coyotas are sweet pastries made from two tortillas (flour, water, salt and oil) with a filling of brown sugar – a flavour known as piloncillo. Now a days, Doña Maria’s Coyotas are filled with dulce de leche and a sprinkling of granulated peanuts but there are a variety of other types of this delicate pastry including: apple, guava, chocolate, quince, strawberry, pineapple and fig.
Each Coyota is made by hand and baked at a high temperature in what appears to be a quite ancient oven. Watching the process is intriguing as two women churn out the ‘tortillas’ with immense speed. First a ball of dough is squished and moulded into a tortilla and then stuffed with filling. The Coyotas are then baked at a very high temperature to create the flaky pastry.
The bakery is still a family business with Mr. Renato Ramírez Grijalva in charge of the day to day running of the business; Renato is married to the granddaughter of Doña Maria, the founder. The owner is Ana Catalina Moreno Ochoa, the daughter of Doña María.
Doña Maria Bakery,
Sufragio No. 37, Colonia Villa de Seris, Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico
Tel: +52 (662) 307 0340