The psyche of the Deep South is influenced by the waters of the Mississippi River. And everything is nurtured into life by this river and the incredibly hot, sticky weather that the summer brings. On a Mississippi River Steamboat voyage this last summer, I experienced first-hand how the river feeds the music.
Arriving into Helena, Arkansas, I am seduced by the lush countryside and the meandering of the Mississippi River as she flows lazily downstream towards the Gulf Coast. It is early morning, yet already warm as we disembark and climb up the riverbank. Several of my compatriots and I are embarking on a quest to hear some truly great music.
We are going to a good ol’ fashioned gospel service at the local Baptist church. Afterwards, we will tour Clarksdale where many blues musicians hail from and where this style of music flourished.
The choir members at the 19th Street Baptist Church have taken time off work to perform for us.
A service sheet is distributed and the programme starts with a prayer and short message by the pastor. Then the choir kicks into gear. They bellow out songs with a passion and force that puts professionals to shame. Beautiful, stylish it may not be but it moves me to the core. I switched my recorder on as a mother and her two daughters’ belt out an a’cappella number that shakes the rafters. Soon everyone has their hands in the air and are dancing in the pews. The music and the rhythms are contagious.
After this uplifting experience I am soon travelling on to visit Clarksdale home of the delta blues. We cross back over the river and, low and behold, have left Arkansas and are now back in Mississippi! We head straight for the famous crossroads of US Hwy 61 and US Hwy 49; where Robert Johnson is reputed to have sold his soul to the devil so he could play the blues. There is a marker with a guitar to show the famous spot.
Clarksdale is also where Tennessee Williams, whose famous books and plays are legendary, spent a significant part of his childhood. Many of his characters, including those in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, are based on childhood acquaintances and people he knew from Clarksdale.
But the most fascinating place to visit is the Delta Blues Museum. Founded in 1979 and based near the old railroad tracks, there are dozens and dozens of displays dedicated to blues musicians from all over the U.S., with everything from posters, to records and guitars to clothing. A truly unique and comprehensive selection of artefacts.
It’s the exhibits celebrating the music of Muddy Waters, Robert Johnson and Charles Musselwhite – all local musicians – that engage me. They have even erected the cabin Muddy Waters grew up in with his share cropper parents to give visitors an idea of the poverty many musicians grew up with.
Directly across the street is Ground Zero Blues Club, opened, and still run, by film actor Morgan Freeman. Serving up delta blues music and southern fried food, this is one hoppin’ joint I must say. I listened to a fantastic act; a singer, songwriter and blues piano player named Lala. She couldn’t hold a candle to Janis Joplin but she kept me entertained while I tucked into fried green tomatoes. Yum!
22 km Northeast of Drambulla lies the 5th century UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Fortress in the Sky – Sigiriya. The former palace lies atop a 660ft. rock and is considered the 8th wonder of the world. On reaching the top of the fortress, there are mind numbing views for many miles of verdant landscape, punctuated by reservoirs and with misty mountains as a backdrop.
In the early 5th century A.D., Dhatusena, a young man of royal lineage, conducted a guerrilla campaign to oust foreigners. During this time, he had a son named Kashyapa of a woman of a lower caste. After the war was ended, he became King and married a woman of royal descent who became his Queen and had a son named Moggallana. Moggallana was the heir to the throne because of his royal birth. All lived together peacefully until Dhatusena killed the wife of his nephew, Migara. Migara exploited Kashyapa’s feeling of insecurity about his position in the family and turned him against his father. Kashyapa killed the King and Moggallana, his brother, fled to India in fear of retribution. Kashyapa inherited the throne of the Anuradhapura Kingdom and built Sigiriya during his reign between the years of 477-495 A.D.
Sigiriya is now known as the Lion’s Rock because of the enormous lion constructed of brick at the entrance to the fortress. All that remains of this magnificent beast are its enormous paws through which the last portion of staircase ascends to the very top of the rock.
The palace would have been nearly impenetrable to attack but there are also two moats surrounding Sigiriya to give extra protection.
I begin the climb going up ancient stairs that have taken innumerable visitors to the palace at the very top. The stairs are steep but in good repair. The ascent begins by passing through a natural gateway. If you can manage to walk up several stair cases for about 45 minutes, including a spiral one that ascends straight up for a few metres, you will be about ½ way up the sheer rock face and will be rewarded about by access to historic frescoes. The earliest work of Sinhala art is painted into the rock and shows vivid depictions of part of the King’s harem. One woman is clothed but the rest of the harem are painted nude from the waist up and in great detail.
After viewing the frescoes and descending another spiral staircase, you come across a straight platform where the views to the south take in the moat below and many reservoirs in this vast landscape. In the middle distance is an enormous white Buddha rearing up into the sky while hills, and ultimately mountains create the vast backdrop.
An enormous, leafy park surrounds the rock fortress, large sections of which have had foundations re-constructed by archaeologists. Other sections have been left underground for future archaeologists for their digs.
The pleasure gardens constructed here were the first of their kind in Asia. There are enormous pools, the outline of a meandering ‘lazy river’ waterway is still visible. There is an outer moat which is filled with lilies. Extensive foundations of administrative buildings have been uncovered. Within these we know there were courtyards, fountains.
The audience room is hewn into an enormous granite boulder. This is where the King could see subjects or guests that would not come to the palace at the top.
If travelling up from Dambulla on the Ambepussa – Kurunegala – Trincomalee Hwy/A6, turn right onto the B162. There will be a clearly marked turn off on the left for Sigiriya.
If coming from the North, take the A11 to Moragas Illukwewa Road (B294) and turn right. There will be a junction with the B162 on the left and proceed to Sigiriya which is a right turn.
I never expected the ‘up country’ or ‘up river’ part of The Gambia to be so completely different from the coast. Roughing it does not begin to describe how differently people live in rural Gambia.
I could title this particular blog ‘putting your money where your mouth is’. I was the one who wanted to go ‘off piste’ in Africa. No one twisted my arm to do it. What took place was a bit disconcerting.
It started with the ferry ride from Banjul to Barra. Normally that would not be an issue but, as one of the ferries wasn’t working, it was a 2 ½ hour wait to board. Another ½ hour later after crossing the river, our schedule for that day was thrown into disarray. But, hey, this is Africa and sometimes infrastructure is not quite up to standards Brits are used to. Get over it! (I said to myself).
Rather than motoring over to Georgetown after our tour of Niumi National Park and Jinack Island, we ended up staying in the area. Unfortunately it was in a (not yet completed) lodge in Mayamba village near the ferry terminal. It looked good from the outside but had no amenities. Though my room was clean, it had a useless mattress and cushions for pillows and a window that wouldn’t close. There was a family with domestic animals living in the back garden of the premises. It didn’t particularly bother me but it meant that there were noisy goats eating grass outside my room at 4am (at least, I think it was goats!)
It was a day later at Tendaba Lodge that everything unravelled.
Apparently, I was supposed to have a room with A/C. When I was told that this message did not get through, I was philosophical and not too worried. But I did make a fuss about having a proper mattress which, thankfully, was organised.
I was so pleased to have got a decent night’s sleep and was getting ready for breakfast when there was a knock on the door. It was Ebrima, my personal tour guide. “Modou, the driver, is sick. He has been vomiting since 4:00 this morning. We must do the birding tour very quickly and then get him to the hospital.” I was very concerned because Modou seemed like the sort that was indestructible. But then I saw him lurching around and vomiting, I realised he was in a bad way. It was either horrific food poisoning or something worse.
What Ebrima had failed to tell me was that he didn’t have a driving license. I was going to be the designated ambulance driver. By now I was imagining that Modou had malaria or something equally horrendous so I took the keys and off we went. And it would be 180kms to the hospital. This was not a joy ride.
Within a few minutes of leaving the compound, we had to pull over to let our sick friend ‘use the toilet’. Of course, there really weren’t any toilets in these rural villages (nor running water or electricity).
I somehow managed to navigate at top speed down the two lane highway avoiding: cows, goats, people, bikes…and dealing with police, immigration and military road blocks along the way. At one military check point, the soldier became furious with me because I mis-understood his hand signal; I had moved forward when he wanted me to stop. So, he then decided to search my luggage even though he could see there was a sick person with us. Very, very frustrating.
But with steadfast determination – energised by the fear that someone could die on my watch – we managed to get Modou to the hospital before his symptoms became any worse.
What an experience for my first ever trip to The Gambia! Next time, I might stay at the beach resorts.
Many years ago I embarked on a journey to Italy with a group of opera buffs; one of my first ever forays abroad as a grown up. Being obsessed with singing at the time, part of the reason to visit Bergamo was to see a museum dedicated to Donizetti.
Actually, it was a school that had a few exhibits dedicated to the great composer but it was still interesting. I remember gazing into orderly shop windows and taking a ride on the funicular from the Cittá Bassa to the Cittá Alta.
But my most powerful memory was the pealing of church bells.
Now, on returning to Bergamo, I understand why I remembered the bells. As our tour guide, Marco, regales us with stories of yesteryear, he tells us that the church bells were sounded every night one hundred times to announce the closing of the city gate. This tradition began many hundreds of years ago and continues to this day. No wonder I remember the incessant ringing.
And Marco told us a personal story about the alarm bells. He had taken out a girl for the first time and he was nervous. They were sitting overlooking the valley when the sonorous and loud clamour of the bells began. The girl was startled and embraced him out of fear. He was quite happy about that and it meant the date went very well from that point on.
The stunning hill top fortification, which had built up over millennia, was virtually abandoned once town folk decided it was safe to build homes on the valley floor below. Bergamo’s Cittá Alta, so the story goes, became a ghost town overnight. This came after the unification of Milan and Bergamo in the early 19th century under the rule of the Austrians; Bergamo was jointed together with much of the surrounding area including the alpine lakes.
Austrians had a strong influence on the Bergamese dialect which is full of distinctly Germanic umlauts. An example is the word for a polenta dish: Chisöl.
About a century ago, many Bergamese realised that they had a treasure on their hands and began to move back to the old city and to renovate it. The popular and populated Cittá Alta is now one of the most expensive places to live in Italy, if not Europe.
As we drove through the city gate to began our tour, the first place mentioned was the famous gelateria and café “La Marianna” www.lamarianna.it. La Marianna is famous for creating the chocolate ice cream flavour Stracciatella renowned the world over.
We walked through the Piazza Vecchia which was revealed to be built upon Roman ruins, something only recently discovered. We were amazed at the beauty of the Cappella Colleoni (Colleoni chapel), which is annexed to the equally impressive Santa Maria Maggiore, a masterwork of Renaissance architecture and decorative art. It contains the tomb of the soldier Bartolomeo Colleoni. On leaving the Santa Maria Maggiore, we noticed a strange coat of arms on the steel gate. It was bronze and depicted three sets of male genetalia!!
We also popped into the stylish 5* Relais Lorenzo Hotel to see the ruins of the city wall which are nestled in the basement room of the hotel. An extraordinary hotel in which to stay and spend a few days in this unique and ancient town.
On this occasion, another highlight was a wonderful lunch at DaMimmo Restaurant on Via B Colleoni. Our meal featured local specialities including a Piccolo antipasta (made from polenta), a dish of traditional ravioli followed by a charred, roast lamb shank on a base of polenta. The pièce de résistance was a simple dessert of cheese accompanied by miele del Parco dei Colli (local honey). Bellisimo!
You may have read about my top destinations for 2014…now here are my top ten cruises and ships. I find cruises are the ideal opportunity to visit several new places. I can see many ports and facets of a country, or indeed countries, without ever having to pack and unpack except when embarking and disembarking, of course. If you haven’t tried a cruise yet, now is the time to splash out and go to sea! Here is my pick of the best:
1. Royal Caribbean Cruise Line’s Quantum of the Seas
The 4,180 passenger Quantum of the Seas ‘changes everything’ (according to Royal Caribbean Cruise Line) and this is certainly true, particularly as far as technology is concerned. This SMART ship has a dedicated satellite zapping down fibre optic type broadband that will create incredible bandwidth. This means superfast downloads and unbelievable connectivity. Shazam! Some of the other amazing features on board are: North Star (a London Eye type pod that pivots right out over the sea at about 350ft high), Ripcord by iFly which offers simulated sky diving, the Bionic Bar with robot bartenders mixing drinks and dynamic dining that encompasses 19 dining venues. I tried both Jamie’s Italian and Chops Grille. Yum!! And there is also first class theatre entertainment with shows like Mamma Mia. The Anthem of the Seas will be sailing from Southampton in 2015. Can’t wait.
2. Norwegian Cruise Line’s Getaway
At the beginning of 2014, Norwegian Cruise Line’s new ship, Getaway, had a spectacular launch in Southampton. I wrote more about this ship than I ever expected to and it was, indeed, a beautiful vessel. Its bright and brassy livery and interiors are all about and dedicated to Miami, Florida. And to top it off, the godmothers of Getaway were the Miami Dolphins Football Team Cheerleaders. I very much enjoy the exceptional venues (dining and otherwise) that Norwegian Cruise Line offers. You can’t beat the Ice Bar for a bit of frigid fun and the Modern Churrascaria Brazilian restaurant is an all-time favourite of mine. On this occasion, several people ‘walked the plank’ as part of a top deck that has water park type attractions. Several also whizzed down a water slide tube while shivering in the English winter cold. At least the sun was shining!
3. Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth
I am cheating a bit here because I sailed on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth at the very end of 2013 but I thought she deserves a mention and more. I flew out to the port of Pireus in Athens and joined the cruise in progress. We sailed to several Greek ports of call enjoying the wonderful sunshine and history of these islands. This Cunard ship is not as large as the Queen Mary, which is an all out ocean liner, but I love her traditional wood décor through-out and beautiful salons, theatres and dance venues. To me it brings back the grand and glorious golden era of cruising that will hopefully live on forever!
4. Eastern Mediterranean Cruise on Azamara Quest
My first visit to Istanbul was one of my top ten destinations for 2014 and the highlight on my Eastern Mediterranean Cruise with Azamara Club Cruises. The Azamara Quest luxury ship is mid-sized with a capacity of 686 passengers but still manages to create an intimate ambience. The pool deck is fabulous and swimming in the ship’s salt water pool is a real treat. Other ports of call on our trip were Chania, Crete and Santorini, Kusadasi, Turkey; Dikili, Turkey and Patmos, Greece. The AzAmazing Evening Concert in Turkey, in one of the amphitheatre in Ephesus was a stunning event and meticulously planned.
5. Do’uro River Cruise, CroisiEurope’s Infant d’Henrique
The Do’uro River in Portugal is known mainly for its UNESCO heritage terraced vineyards and for the making of exceptional fortified wines. Our itinerary and trip began in Porto on board Infant d’Henrique and that day was, by coincidence, the Feast Day of St. John the Baptist. Incredible fun. All the residents had sardine dinners along the river and then there was a spectacular fireworks display near the Ponte D. Maria Pia. Sailing up the river was beautiful. I recommend the excursion to Vila Real to visit the historic Mateus House and to also try out the delicious pastries created during medieval times.
6. The Rhône River, Uniworld’s SS Catherine
Launching a vessel with someone as famous and well known as actress Catherine Deneuve is always going to be an exceptional experience. But when it is a six star vessel like her namesake, the SS Catherine, that brings everything to another level. The launch was elegant and the meal that followed, luxurious. This event was then followed by a cruise down the Rhone with visits to exceptional vineyard towns: Tain-l’Hermitage and Tournon-sur-Rhône. There was a special induction ceremony into the Touron-sur-Rhone wine-makers guild. Viviers was another stop on our voyage with a lovely village and spectacular climb to a well-known statue of St. Mary that overlooks the Rhone and the valley.
7. Emerald Waterways
Another launch with a super celebrity was the Emerald Star river cruise ship which I joined on the Rhein River. Twiggy was the godmother on this occasion though we saw very little of her during the actual cruise. The ship is very modern featuring natural décor, white, black and crème coloured interiors and scaled back minimalist cabins. Sailing through the famous section of the Rhein River, which is dotted with medieval castles, is always a treat. It was a dazzling afternoon and the beauty of this setting cannot be overemphasised. There was an excursion to a beautiful spot in the Black Forest where they have refurbished, medieval farmhouses. This is not only a new cruise vessel but a brand new cruise line so expect to hear more about Emerald Waterways in 2015.
8. Forever Fjords with Fred. Olsen on Balmoral
I just cannot get enough of the Norwegian coastline and ports. This is such a rugged and gorgeous part of the world that I will always grab the opportunity to take a cruise to this wonderful destination. And I also enjoy sailing with Fred. Olsen and writing about this good value cruise line. On this fjord itinerary, I got to see the Pulpit Rock which is a short boat ride up the Lysefjord Fjord near the port of Stavanger. There were even mountain goats playing around on the craggy cliffs. Bergen and its old harbour plus bustling fish market is always a favourite destination as is Flåm and the incredible Flåm railway that climbs an enormous mountain traversing rivers and waterfalls along the way.
9. Hapag Lloyd’s Europa 2
Nothing is better than Europa 2 according to Douglas Ward and his Berlitz Guide to the Top Cruise Ships. This sleek modern ship, with luxury cabins with butlers, bathtubs and enormous balconies has a price tag that is not too unreasonable for well-heeled Brits. There are speciality restaurants with exceptional cuisine (the Italian was my favourite) an amazing spa and spectacular pool deck as well as gorgeous art work through-out. Though it was only a taster cruise on Europa 2 for me, I am looking forward to having the full experience in 2015.
10. Regal Princess, Princess Cruises
There was a launch in Florida this autumn of another brand new vessel, Regal Princess. This new addition to Princess Cruises’ fleet was welcomed by well wishers including the former cast of the hit series The Love Boat. Such a shame that, up to now, there has been little opportunity for the British press to experience the new ship but I am sure this will be amended. The sister ship of Royal Princess, Regal Princess has many similar amenities including the exceptional Sanctuary Spa. Watch this space for a report in 2015.
Every travel writer worth their salt will tantalise you with a round-up of their top trips for the past year. So here is my list. Experienced new parts of both the U.S. and Europe I had never travelled to before though, I must admit, I did not go much further afield than that. But here’s hoping you get to enjoy and experience travel that excites you in the year ahead. Bring on 2015!!
Relatively new as a winter destination, I went on a long weekend trip with hubby to Reykjavik and had a taste of what Iceland has to offer. The day of our Golden Triangle tour dawned clear and cold, perfect weather for seeing the natural sights. I decided my favourite thing to do in Iceland is luxuriating in the wonderful thermal pools – many of which are far from the capital city. Also seeing the Northern Lights is a surreal and soul-searching experience. I am really looking forward to my next trip there.
You haven’t lived if you haven’t lobstered in Maine. This is the real deal where you get to go to sea, set traps, handle the lobster and generally get to grips with what it is like to be a real fisherman and seafood scavenger on this rugged coast. We sailed out on a glorious day from Portland’s harbour and had the time of our lives. Just before coming to Portland we visited and had a wine-tasting at the Cellar Doors Winery near picturesque Camden. Another wonderful experience.
3) New Orleans
This intriguing historic city on the banks of the Mississippi River is all about the French Quarter and Mardi Gras. New Orleans’ residents consider themselves to be more European/Caribbean than American with immigrants from many backgrounds including Sicilians, Creoles, Africans, Acadians, Spanish, German, Cubans and the list goes on and on. The obsession with food must go back to the early settlers who were of French extraction. The first setters, who got on well with the local Indians, were Acadians; French Canadians that were booted out of their northern home by the English. They are famous for Cajun cooking (which entails lots of highly seasoned game). And speaking of game, I took a trip out to the swamp and really enjoyed the natural surroundings and wildlife.
Turtle soup, oysters, oysters grilled and topped with cheese, shrimp gumbo, crawfish and crab were just a few of the dishes I tried and enjoyed. And a trip to R’evolution Restaurant in the French Quarter was a revelation.
4) Florida Keys
Rock n’ Roll and Wild, Wild West begin to describe Key West which is one of the funkiest and fun-nest places I have ever visited. Sunset at Mallory Square is frantic and yet relaxing, with most folks trying out conch critters and washing them down with Margaritas. A few were even smoking Cuban cigars. A back water kayaking tour was one of the best activities of my year.
5) RHONE VALLEY
Lyon in France is one of those overlooked destinations that everyone should make the effort to see and experience. I stayed overnight in the historic old town staying at the Phoenix Hotel. Such a lovely part of town to explore. I then joined the river cruise vessel SS Catherine for a magical short cruise down the Rhone.
It is hard for me to believe that I have never been to Boston before now. It was tremendous staying at the XV Beacon Hotel on top of Beacon Hill and right next door to the golden domed State Capital. We also were very close to the famous Faneuil Market and scores of other historic sights such the famous Boston common founded in the 1600s. The proximity to water and the Freedom Trail, plus the many other great places to visit, such as the museum of fine art, make Boston a unique destination.
What can I say about the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul? It is probably the oldest establishment of its kind in the world and such a rich experience for the senses. The spice market, the glorious pashminas and the hustle, bustle and bartering make this a feast for the eyes, ears and nose. Seeing the Blue Mosque, the Golden Horn and the Hagia Sophia for the first time was nothing less than spectacular. I can’t wait to visit again and explore further.
8) Porto and the Do’uro River
Don’t miss the opportunity to take a river cruise with CroisiEurope on the Do’uro River if you possibly can. Visiting ancient Porto and learning about the making of port wine is fascinating but it is seeing the terraced vineyards, now a UNESCO heritage site, that make this cruise something different. Don’t miss the excursion to Vila Real to see historic and fascinating Mateus House and, when in the town, try out the specialist pastry created in medieval times and still baked to this day.
This mystical island off the coast of Massachusetts was renowned for being the world capital of whaling for several centuries. It is now a tourist destination without peer and boasts white sand beaches, and an historic town centre with clapboard buildings plus lighthouses, windmills and other ancient landmarks. An incredible place to visit. I stayed at the authentic and evocative White Elephant Hotel.
10) Orlando, Florida
Speaking of magic, at the tail end of the year I visited Universal Studios, Orlando to explore the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at the Island of Adventure and Universal Studios theme parks. I would recommend it highly to families as it is such an interactive, fun experience. The new Hogmeade Train and Escape from Gringotts were my favourite attractions as was the evening performance of the Blue Man Group. My guest and I had an authentic Italian meal at Mama Della’s Ristorante at the Portofino Bay Hotel where I tried both the creamy risotto and also grilled sea bass. We were entertained by the restaurant’s strolling musicians while sipping wine. A relaxing way to top of our stay.
You know you are in for a treat when the chefs and the kitchen are on full display. Though you might imagine this to be a noisy environment, it isn’t at Hugo’s Restaurant. Each chef is working quietly and earnestly as if on their own little culinary planet. It is spellbinding to watch such an enormous amount of effort, detail and sheer artwork going into the preparation of these tiny portions of food.
In 1988, this restaurant opened as a humble family eatery and it has changed dramatically over the decades. It is now a refined space with a dark wood interior and elegant yet subdued artwork. There are booths up against the walls and a bar with bar stools that surrounds and envelopes the über cool industrial kitchen. (I noticed cookery books on display including a volume from NOMA).
With Hugo’s, haute cuisine is simplified but also has a presentation that is fresh and exciting. The offerings change daily depending on what is in season and which market ingredients have inspired the chef on any given day.
The menu is separated into three sections with four categories and four items under each category. Guests can mix and match across the categories as they wish. Diners choose any five courses from all three menus for $90 or two courses for $45. Also one can add additional courses for $22. Dessert is included.
The categories are: Foraged and Farmed, From the Sea and Forest and Field
My starter is firmly in the Forest and Field category. It is a luxurious cream of broccoli soup with parmesan puff, yogurt and carrot. The parmesan puff is divine and the soup is tasty and perfectly seasoned.
For my third item I select the Kuri Squash, also known as Japanese Squash. It has an orange coloured firm flesh yet quite delicate flavour. My companion and I receive a sizeable portion which I didn’t finish it was so filling. It is accompanied by duck liver mousse, crispy quinoa (which is stunning in appearance and taste) plus peach jam. Yum!
My main course is the grilled swordfish which arrives with vinegar glazed mussels, head lettuce and sulfar beans. The swordfish is quite a good sized portion and very succulent with the accoutrements being equally delicious.
But it is the dessert that wins the award for ‘Best Presentation’. Two separate creations appear on a single wooden plank. One is a succotash (a take on Southern style mixed vegetables…but sweet) with tiny brown tomatoes (I have never seen miniature or brown tomatoes before). The largest fragment is a two tablespoon sized portion of cake topped with a minty foam.
Golden raspberries with a chocolate bark are the main ingredients of the next desert which includes a dollop of raspberry sorbet, tiny floral leaves and a smattering of crumble. Both are displayed on the plate beautifully and tasted as good as they looked.
The imagination that goes into each individual portion of food is truly impressive. I would go to Hugo’s Restaurant again and again.
Hugo’s Restaurant, 88 Middle Street, Portland, ME
I am not sure why I feel so proud that the European Space Agency has hatched this incredible project. But I do.
It was ten years ago, on 2 March 2004, that the Rosetta probe was launched into space. Its mission: to go to the outer reaches of our solar system, get into orbit with an icy comet and then send a landing device to gather information from it. It had three gravity assist fly-bys with Earth and one with Mars before going into hibernation and waking up in early 2014. If all goes as planned, Philae, will land on the comet on 12 November, 2014
The Rosetta Mission was named after the ‘Rosetta Stone’ which is a fragment of Egyptian stone tablet which unlocked the secret to hieroglyphics for the first time.
Rosetta will study the organic, icy material in comets in great details. It is believed this could unlock secrets of the Solar System such as how the earth became a watery planet? Comets are the most primitive building blocks of our cosmic world, surviving the Solar System’s chaotic 4.6 billion year history more or less intact.
Philae, the landing vehicle, is named for the island on the River Nile where an obelisk with found with bi-lingual Greek and hieroglyphic inscriptions similar to the Rosetta Stone.
So look to the night sky on the 12th November. Who knows. You might be able to see something of this miraculous comet-chaser if you look hard enough.
A Nantucket sunset photographed from Galley Beach Restaurant.
With the late afternoon upon us, it is time to explore the north eastern part of the intriguing sea and windswept isle named Nantucket.
The White Elephant Hotel, where we are staying, ferries us to Galley Beach, a typically beautiful spot on Nantucket. We walk through perfect white sand to the Galley Beach Restaurant and are assigned our table before having a stroll along the beach. David Silva’s (nearly) open air restaurant is an almost organic part of the environment. As the light is waning, clouds part and the most magnificent sunset unfolds before our us. Luckily I snap a few photos before the pink sun completely disappears.
Galley Beach Restaurant began life as a clam shack on Cliffside Beach in 1958 and has been owned and run by the same family ever since. The off white décor, with just a hint of nautical, is inviting and place appropriate. The see-through plastic hanging coverings keep the wind out but let the light and sunshine in. Comfy wicker type chairs and hurricane lamps top the tables. Shell decorations and natural fabrics in the restaurant continue the outdoor feel. Many people choose to eat outside if the weather is suitable but we decide to stay in as there is already an autumn chill in the air.
David Silva, the current owner, happens to be on hand to help us select a good wine. My companion is having Filet Mignon but I am interested in trying the fresh coastal cuisine and so ordered the cod filet with leek puree. We decide to try a white wine. The Starry Night, 2010 Russian River Chardonnay is lovely and light (my companion’s choice) but when I try out the Bourgogne, I am sold straight away. The 2011 Michelot is exquisite with a fragrant bouquet and full bodied flavour.
Neil Ferguson is executive chef and his menus are influenced by local flavours and seafood which include European touches like truffle oil, foiegras and brioche. His early training was in England but then he spent a year in Burgundy at Marc Meneau‘s three-Michelin star L’Esperance. There was a further year at the three-Michelin star L’Arpege in Paris with Alain Passard, a mentor he holds in high regard. These influences are evident in his cooking.
I dig into the rest of the meal in earnest, starting with a staple of this region, New England clam chowder. Very creamy and incredibly delicious. My companion’s Roasted Beet Root Salad was made up of Strachiatella cheese, orange segments, mache and lemon-fennel puree. Unique, fresh and tasty.
By now the restaurant is full and buzzing. Our main courses are just as good as the appetizers. The Filet Mignon is exquisite and perfectly cooked. My cod fillet is firm, fresh yet tender as well. The leek puree and fingerling potatoes are a perfect accompaniment and the truffled vinagarette adds a bit of something extra in the dusky flavour department.
But perhaps my favourite dish of the night was the scrummy Strawberry Shortcake Crumble. The rich shortcake was just the right size portion to end the meal and the fresh ice cream and gorgeous strawberries set it off beautifully. Decadent is the proper word to describe this treat.
Fine dining is all the rage on Nantucket and there are many eateries to choose from, but this tucked away gem needs to be tried. It stands on its own as a gastronomic delight.
My first visit to Istanbul is a breath-taking experience. For all the right reasons.
Sailing up the Sea of Marmara in the early morning light, the verdant hills of the Sultanahmet start sliding into view. I squint against the brightness and scan the horizon with intent. Then it appears. The glistening dome of the Blue Mosque catches my eye and I experience a quick intake of breath. Though it doesn’t look as blue as I imagined, it is a striking and awe-inspiring structure even from this distance. Quickly, all sorts of minarets and spires come into sight reaching up beseechingly to the sky. It is not long before the Golden Horn is before us spilling out into the sea. More of the city appears as we get closer and closer to our dock.
The European side of Istanbul is where the old town and historic buildings lie. The Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque are virtually all within yards of each other with the Grand Bazaar less than a mile away. The Sultanahmet attracts tourists by their thousands, if not millions. I cannot wait to get my walking shoes on and explore this enchanting city.
And soon the incredible Bosphorus Suspension Bridge is in sight, with its striking design based on the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. To think this one structure connects the European and Asian continents has captured the imagination of the world.
We disembark to start our Istanbul adventure. Strolling through the non-descript Karaköy neighbourhood with its office blocks and utilitarian shops, we soon reach the old Galata Bridge that spans the Golden Horn. Water now comes into view and we begin to traverse the bridge. Lining the edges are local fisherman – I look down and can clearly see dozens and dozens of jelly fish, their iridescent shapes spookily floating about in the clear water.
As soon as we are midway across, we notice stairs going down to another, lower level. Just above the water is another section of the bridge. Here there are restaurants and tea houses getting ready for their first customers. We settle in and have a Turkish tea.
Emerging back up to the road level, we make our way past the buckets of bait and fishing lines towards the Eminönü section of town. This bustling recreational zone near the water is full of families buying treats and walking along the promenade and enjoying the cool yet sunny morning.
As we walk up the hill towards the Fatih district, we pass vast numbers of stationers and wedding invitation shops. Soon signs appear to direct us to the Grand Bazaar.
I don’t think anything can quite prepare you for this incredible structure with its ancient warren of walkways and wonderful shops. Building began in 1455 at the beginning of the reign of the Ottoman Empire after the defeat of Constantinople . They say that the rituals around bartering began at the same time as the construction of the bazaar and are still thriving to this day.
We have arrived quite early, so the bazaar is bustling but not too busy. I am amazed at how wide the main isle is the takes you through the centre of this shopping mecca. The designs and décor above our heads are striking and colourful. And, of course, there are dozens and dozens of pashmina, souvenir and jewellery shops. There are upmarket luggage, watch and leather outlets as well. I even spot children’s toy shops and eateries offering Turkish snacks.
I will be buying pashminas today for various relatives who have asked for them. I make my first attempt at bargaining, to the amusement of my husband. There is astonishment from the vendor as I offer half of the price he is quoting. I move on to the next shop as my husband is giggling at my efforts. This does not stand me in good stead with the vendor.
We approach another shop and I am soon ushered inside by a friendly attendant. I quickly discover that there are many suitable shawls and scarves here. Once hubby and I start discussing the various options for different people (with the salesman dutifully pulling out shawls for us to look at) I know my bartering position won’t be very strong. I have shown too much interest!
But we happily part with our money on finding three pashminas which are just the colours needed.
It is soon time to have a bit of lunch. I leave the bazaar not having experienced it thoroughly or having done nearly enough shopping. But we soon discover a local restaurant that makes the best spicy lentil soup I have ever tasted. The waiter seems very impressed when we attempt a few words in Turkish. Everyone is pleased!
There will be another blog about our discoveries in Sultanahmet and also a previous cookery experience in Kuşadasi. Watch this space!
I travelled on the ship Azamara Quest on an Eastern Mediterranean itinerary.